Wide Angle vs Neewer Ultra Wide and Fisheye for Blogging on a Smartphone

In this article I want to walk you through a real-world mobile creator setup I’ve been using with my Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra — including how I monitor framing, which lens I actually record with, and how add-on lenses from Neewer can change your field of view for vlogging.

If you record yourself with your phone (fitness tips, talking while walking, travel, behind-the-scenes, etc.), this is the kind of setup that lets you get high-quality footage without carrying a dedicated camera.

Why You Should Be Using the Main Camera on Your Phone (Not the Selfie Cam)

Let’s start with something most people get backwards.

Your phone actually has multiple cameras:

• The rear/main 1x camera (the one on the back of the phone),

• The ultra-wide camera (0.5x),

• The telephoto / zoom cameras, and

• The front/selfie camera (the one facing you when you’re looking at the screen).

Most people vlog with the selfie camera because they can see themselves. It’s convenient. But: that is not the best camera on your phone.

On a phone like the Galaxy S24 Ultra, the main rear 1x camera is the best camera:

• It has the best lens (better clarity, better glass),

• It has the best sensor (larger sensor = better light and detail),

• And it shoots the highest resolution and best frame rates.

We’re talking about a 50-megapixel sensor on that main 1x camera. That is the camera on the phone that gives you the cleanest image, the best sharpness, the best dynamic range. That’s the one you actually want to use for serious video.

The selfie/front camera? Lower megapixels, cheaper optics, usually worse in low light, and often limited in frame rate/resolution. Sometimes you can hit 4K, but often not at 60fps or with the same level of quality. It’s fine for casual clips, but it’s not what you want if you care about looking professional.

So the problem becomes:
How do you film yourself with the good camera when the good camera is pointed away from you and you can’t see the screen?

My Framing Trick: Using a Watch as a Monitor

Here’s how I solve that.

When I’m filming with the S24 Ultra’s main 1x rear camera, I can’t see the phone screen because it’s facing away from me. So instead, I mirror the camera preview to my smartwatch.

That means I’m holding the phone out in front of me, using the best camera on the device, and I can still check my framing by glancing at my watch. The watch basically becomes my little monitor.

This lets me:

• Use the highest-quality camera on the phone,

• Keep myself properly framed,

• Record in the best resolution / frame rate,

• And still vlog handheld like normal.

If you’re a solo content creator, this is a game-changer. You don’t need someone behind the camera.

The Limit of the Main Camera: Field of View

Now, there is one challenge when you film this way:

The main 1x rear camera is not super wide.

With your arm fully extended, you’re still fairly close to the lens. You don’t see a ton of background behind you. Sometimes that’s fine — like if I’m doing a more personal “talk to camera” clip — but other times I want to show more of the environment, more scenery, more gym space, more of what’s happening around me.

You could switch to the built-in 0.5x ultra-wide camera on the phone. That will instantly give you a wider field of view. But here’s the issue: those ultra-wide lenses are usually lower quality. Smaller sensor, softer edges, worse low-light performance. You’re giving up image quality to get width.

And remember: the whole point of this setup is to squeeze the absolute best image possible out of a phone.

So how do you get a wider shot while still using the best camera (the main 1x)?

The Neewer Cage + Threaded Lens System

This is where add-on lenses come in.

I’m using a metal phone cage / case from Neewer, that allows me to screw lenses directly onto the main 1x camera. The system I’m using is a Neewer setup. The case lines up the phone camera with a 17mm threaded mount so I can attach external glass securely. It’s not just a little clip-on that can wiggle or fall off — this screws on solid.

A few nice things about this approach:

• It lets me keep using the main 1x camera (which again is the best camera on the phone).

• I can change the field of view just by swapping the lens.

• The attachment is tight and centered so you’re not constantly fiddling with alignment.

• I can swap lenses fast.

The cage I’m using was about $40 CAD. The lenses are in the $50–$60 CAD range each. So we’re not talking pro cinema money here. There are $200-$300 mobile lenses out there that are sharper, yes, but for what I’m doing, this price-to-performance is honestly good enough.

Also worth noting: Neewer also has a slimmer case with that same 17mm threaded mount built in, so you don’t always have to run the full metal cage. That’s nice if you want something more “daily carry” instead of a full rig.

Lens #1: The Neewer LS-72 18mm Wide / Ultra-Wide Lens

First, I attached Neewer’s LS-72 18mm wide-angle / ultra-wide style lens (often marketed as something like an 18mm equivalent on full frame).

What this does:

• It pulls you back in frame.

• You get way more background in the shot.

• You don’t look like you’re jammed up against the camera.

For vlog style content — walking, talking, showing where you are — this is ideal. You can see my arm, you can see behind me, you get more environment and context. It feels less claustrophobic without me having to hold the phone on a huge selfie stick.

Importantly, this wide lens tries to keep things fairly natural. You don’t get a crazy warped bubble around the edges. Straight lines mostly still look straight. For talking-to-camera, that matters, because if the distortion is too strong, it starts looking like GoPro “action cam mode,” which isn’t always flattering.

This is my “everyday” solution. It gives me that wider field of view that the stock 1x camera doesn’t have, without forcing me to switch to the lower-quality built-in ultra-wide camera.

Lens #2: The Neewer LS-77 Fisheye Lens

Next, I tested the Neewer LS-77 14mm fisheye-style lens.

This one goes even wider than the wide/ultra-wide. You get that classic action-cam look: huge field of view, arm really visible, tons of scenery. It’s the style you see in skateboarding videos and POV action footage.

The tradeoff is distortion. With fisheye, the edges bend. You’ll notice curved lines, stretched corners, and more exaggerated perspective. It’s part of the look.

Is that bad? Not necessarily. It depends on what you’re shooting:

• For casual lifestyle vlog content where you just want “get me + everything around me,” it’s kind of fun.

• For high-energy/action-type clips, it actually looks great.

• For a serious sit-and-talk fitness coaching segment? Probably not what you want.

So I see the fisheye as more of a “special use” tool. Cool to have in the kit, but not my default.

Handheld Stability and Grip

In this test I wasn’t even using a gimbal. I just had the phone in the cage with a simple grip. You could absolutely add a small selfie stick or telescoping handle and get the camera even farther away for an even better angle — but what I was showing is that even at arm’s length you can get usable framing once you throw the wide/ultra-wide lens on there.

For travel, fitness clips at the park, gym walkthroughs, talking while walking — this is practical. You don’t need to bring a full camera bag. You just bring your phone and maybe one screw-on lens.

I’ve also got a compact MagSafe-style selfie stick/tripod on the way that’ll mount fast to the phone. That’s going to make this even easier to run as a one-person filming setup.

Cost and Practicality

Here’s what impressed me most:

• Neewer wide / fisheye lenses: about $50–$60 CAD each

• Neewer S24 Samsung Ultra Aluminum cage: about $40 CAD

• Total: well under the cost of buying a separate vlogging camera

Are these the absolute best lenses money can buy? No. You can spend a lot more and squeeze out more optical performance. But for the price, the quality is honestly very usable for YouTube, shorts, Instagram, etc.

And the biggest win is this:
I don’t have to bring a whole other camera.
I can run everything off my phone, still get high image quality, still get wide field of view, and still monitor framing with my watch.

That’s a really compact creator rig.

Final Thoughts

If you’re serious about mobile content, here’s the core takeaway:

1. Use the main rear camera on your phone whenever possible.
   That’s the best sensor, best lens, best resolution, best frame rate. It’s usually around 50 megapixels on modern flagships like the S24 Ultra. That’s the money camera.

2. Solve framing with a workaround, not by downgrading cameras.
   A smartwatch preview, a small external monitor, or even just test framing and mark a grip position — anything is better than switching to the lower-quality selfie cam.

3. Fix field of view with external glass, not by switching to a worse sensor.
   A good wide-angle attachment on the main 1x camera lets you stay wide without throwing away quality.

4. Keep a fisheye in the bag for fun shots.
   It’s not “every clip” usable, but it’s great for that action-cam look.

Bottom line: with a basic cage, a couple of threaded Neewer lenses, and a way to monitor your shot, your phone can absolutely act like a real vlogging camera. You get pro-looking footage, portability, and you’re ready to shoot any time without dragging extra gear around.

That’s the point: keep it simple, keep it fast, and still make it look good.

Watch in 2D

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Fall Backyard Late Day Rip with BETAFPV Meteor 75 Pro DJI O4 Lite

A beautiful late-day fall flight with my BETAFPV Meteor75 Pro running the DJI O4 Lite system with ND Filter. The golden light made for some awesome FPV cruising — weaving through tight branches, skimming low over open fields, and even ripping a few laps around a parked backhoe for fun. Nothing beats flying in that crisp fall air surrounded by color and texture.

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Get Pro Quality Stabilized Video and Audio with Your Phone

If you're a content creator, vlogger, or someone over 40 looking to level up your mobile video game without diving into complicated gear, this setup is a game changer.

I recently used a powerful combo that turns my everyday smartphone into a legit video production tool. In my case, I used:

• 📱 Galaxy S24 Ultra

• 🌀 Hohem iSteady V3 Ultra Gimbal

• 🎤 DJI Mic Mini Wireless Microphone

The result? Incredibly smooth video and clean, professional audio, all from a compact, mobile-friendly setup. Whether you're making content for YouTube, Instagram, or just want high-quality videos for personal use, this kind of setup makes it easy.

🔧 Gear Breakdown

Here’s what I used, and why it works:

1. Galaxy S24 Ultra (or Any Modern Higher End Smartphone)

While I used Samsung’s flagship, newer iPhones and other high-end Androids are also more than capable of capturing stunning video. The key is having a solid camera sensor and manual control options when needed.

2. Hohem iSteady V3 Ultra Gimbal (or Similar)

This 3-axis gimbal helps smooth out walking shots, pans, and handheld movement. You don’t need to use this exact model either, brands like DJI, Insta360, and Zhiyun all offer great options depending on your budget and phone type.

3. DJI Mic 2 Mini (or Any Quality Wireless Mic System)

Clean audio can make or break your video. A solid wireless microphone system—like the DJI Mini I used can dramatically improve sound quality. But there are other good options out there too. The point is, if your audio is clear and consistent, everything else looks more polished.

🎬 What You Can Expect

This was my first time putting this exact setup to real use, and I was impressed by how seamlessly everything worked together. The stabilization from the gimbal combined with the high-resolution camera and clean wireless audio elevated the footage noticeably.

And the best part? It's all lightweight, easy to set up, and portable enough to take anywhere.

💡 A Flexible Formula

Here’s the winning recipe, customize it based on your existing gear and budget:

• A modern smartphone (Samsung, iPhone, Pixel, etc.)

• A 3-axis gimbal (Hohem, DJI, Insta360, Zhiyun…)

• A wireless mic system (DJI, Rode, Hollyland, etc.)

This isn’t about brand loyalty. It’s about using the right categories of gear to maximize your phone’s potential. Pairing stabilization with good audio and sharp video gives you pro-level content without the hassle of a full camera rig.

🧠 Final Thoughts

You don’t need a $2,000 camera or complicated editing suite to shoot professional-looking video. With the right accessories, your phone becomes a powerful content creation tool that fits in your pocket.

✅ Clean audio
✅ Smooth stabilized footage
✅ Lightweight, portable, and affordable

🎥 Watch my first-look YouTube video here in 2D or 3D:

Watch 2D Version

Watch 3D Version

• Buy DJI Mic Mini
• Buy the Hohem iSteady V3 Ultra
• Buy the Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra

How to Get Abs in Your 40’s, 50’s, 60’s and Even Beyond!

Let’s face it — getting abs in your 40s, 50s, or 60s isn’t easy. But it’s not impossible either.

As we age, our bodies change — metabolism slows, hormones shift, and fat tends to settle in places it never used to. But when you understand what really determines how your abs look, you can start making smarter choices to bring them out — or at least get that lean, defined core that looks great at any age.

There are three main factors that determine how your abs look and how visible they’ll be:

1. Your body fat percentage

2. Your fat storage genetics

3. Your ab muscle density

Let’s break these down.

1. Body Fat Percentage: The Most Important Factor

This is the big one.
You can have incredibly strong abs — but if they’re buried under a layer of fat, no one’s ever going to see them.

In general, for men, visible abs start showing below about 15% body fat, and for women, around 20%.
The leaner you get, the sharper and more detailed those abs will appear.

But here’s the catch — getting there takes work.
It means maintaining a calorie deficit, eating clean, and being consistent with your workouts — especially as your metabolism slows with age.

2. Body Fat Genetics: Where You Store Fat Matters

This is where things get unfair.
We all store body fat differently.

Some people carry most of it in their lower body — hips, thighs, and glutes. Others carry it in their midsection or upper body.

You’ve probably noticed how some people can gain weight and still keep a lean face or visible abs, while others lose their abs the moment they put on a few pounds.
That’s all genetics.

As we age, this becomes even more pronounced. Our bodies naturally start storing more fat around the midsection.
That’s why many people in their 40s and beyond struggle to get that flat, defined stomach even when the rest of their body is lean.

3. Ab Density: The Shape and Thickness of Your Ab Muscles

The third factor is ab muscle density — basically, how thick and round your abdominal muscles are.

Some people are genetically blessed with full, blocky abs that pop even when their body fat isn’t ultra-low.
Others have flatter, smaller ab muscles that just don’t stand out as much — even when they’re shredded.

Now, training your abs can help — exercises like cable crunches, hanging leg raises, and weighted planks can make your abs thicker and more visible.
But genetics still play a big role in how much they can actually “pop.”

Why Sit-Ups Alone Won’t Get You Abs

A common misconception is that doing endless crunches or sit-ups will burn belly fat and reveal your abs.
Unfortunately, that’s not how it works.

You can’t spot-reduce fat.
Your body decides where to lose fat based on genetics — and it usually loses it in the reverse order that it gained it.

So if your belly is where fat goes first, it’ll be the last place it comes off, no matter how many ab exercises you do.

This is why people can have strong abs that are completely hidden — the muscle is there, it’s just buried under a layer of fat.

Why It Gets Harder as You Age

In your 20s, your metabolism is faster, hormones are higher, and you can eat pizza on a Friday night without major consequences.
But once you hit your 40s and beyond, your body becomes less forgiving.

Testosterone drops, muscle mass declines, and your metabolism slows — all of which make it harder to burn fat and stay lean.

To make matters worse, your body naturally becomes more insulin-resistant, meaning it’s easier to gain fat — especially around the stomach area.

This doesn’t mean it’s hopeless.
It just means you need to be more strategic — dial in your nutrition, strength train regularly, and manage stress and sleep (which both play a major role in fat storage).

The Real Path to Abs Over 40

Here’s the truth: almost anyone can have visible abs if they’re willing to put in the work.

But it requires commitment — consistent training, mindful eating, and often, saying no to certain foods and drinks that interfere with your goals.

It’s all about balance.

Ask yourself — what’s the goal?
Is it to get super shredded and have razor-cut abs? Or is it to have a lean, strong, healthy-looking body you can maintain for years to come?

For most people over 40, the second goal is far more realistic — and it still looks incredible.

Final Thoughts

Getting abs in your 40s, 50s, 60s and beyond isn’t about doing more crunches or chasing perfection.
It’s about understanding your body, staying disciplined, and working toward the healthiest version of yourself.

Even if your abs never look like a magazine cover, being leaner, stronger, and more confident at your age is the real win.

If you found this helpful, check out my free training over at GetFitOver40.com/Get-Fit-Now-Training-Share. It’s a great way to kickstart your journey toward a leaner, stronger body — without the gimmicks or the fads.

Stay consistent, stay strong — and I’ll see you in the next one.

How to Upload 3D Videos to YouTube That Actually Play in 3D (Meta Quest - Vision Pro & Most VR Headsets)

After Lots of Trial and Error I Finally Figured It Out!

After a lot of experimenting and troubleshooting, I finally figured out how to take 3D videos recorded on my XREAL Beam Pro and make them play back properly in 3D on YouTube, viewable through devices like the Meta Quest, Apple Vision Pro, and most other VR headsets.

It took quite a bit of trial and error, but the good news is that I’ve discovered a workflow that actually works, and it’s not that difficult to follow once you know the steps.

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Mac & Android Perspective (But Works on iPhone and PC Too)

This guide is based on my workflow using a Mac and Android devices, but there are plenty of crossovers if you’re using an iPhone or Windows PC.

• I use the XREAL Beam Pro as my main 3D camera, but this method also works with iPhone Pro models that record Spatial Video.

• The only difference is that iPhone Spatial Videos first need to be converted to SBS (side-by-side) format, and I’ll show you a super easy way to do this.

• While my process uses Mac software, you can easily find similar tools for Windows PCs to accomplish the same thing.

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The Core Problem: 3D Isn’t Standardized Yet

One of the biggest challenges with 3D content is that it’s still not standardized.
YouTube, in particular, has changed its 3D and 360° upload process multiple times over the years.

They used to offer options to mark your video as 3D or 360° during upload, but those have since been removed.
Even worse, the metadata codes that used to work no longer do. You now need very specific 3D metadata instructions for YouTube to properly recognize and play your video in 3D.

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Working With ChatGPT to Crack the Code

Over the past week, I’ve spent a lot of time testing different methods, even working with ChatGPT to figure out what actually works today.

At first, ChatGPT gave me instructions that seemed confident but didn’t produce the right results. After trying several variations (and combining them with some of my own ideas), I finally got YouTube to recognize and correctly play back 3D videos on most devices.

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Device Compatibility (What Works and What Doesn’t)

This workflow ensures your 3D videos will play properly on most 3D-capable devices, including:

• Meta Quest headsets

• Apple Vision Pro

• Other VR headsets and 3D displays

The only limitation I’ve found is with XREAL glasses (and similar AR glasses with built-in LCD panels).
These devices currently don’t support 3D playback through YouTube, though you can still watch 3D videos locally if the file is stored on the device you are playing it from.

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Step-by-Step Guide: Making YouTube 3D Videos That Actually Work

Step 1: Record Your 3D Video

Start by recording your content in 3D using:

• XREAL Beam Pro

• iPhone Pro (Spatial Video mode)

• Any other 3D camera

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Step 2: Convert Spatial Video to SBS (Side-by-Side) Format

If you’re using an iPhone, you’ll need to convert your Spatial video into SBS format.

• On a Mac, I use a program called Spatial Media Toolkit for Mac.

• If you’re on a PC, you’ll need to find a similar alternative (but the process is the same).

Spatial Media Toolkit offers a free 7-day trial, and it’s worth checking out because it also has a cool extra feature:

You can convert regular 2D videos into very believable 3D videos, which alone might justify purchasing the full version.

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Step 3: Inject the 3D Metadata Code and Save as MKV

This is the critical step that allows YouTube to recognize your file as 3D.

To do this, you’ll need to inject specific 3D metadata into your SBS video file using MKVToolNix, available for both Mac and PC.

Here’s what you do:

1. Open your SBS video in MKVToolNix.

2. Under the Properties section, set:

   • Display width/height to 1920x2160.
     (It might seem strange, but this ensures the correct aspect ratio when YouTube plays it in 3D.)

3. In the Stereoscopy dropdown menu, choose:

   • “Side by Side (left first)”

4. Save your file in MKV format — this container is required because it holds the 3D metadata YouTube needs. (You may need to manually retype the file extension ".mkv"at the end of the video name before saving if it exports as something other than ".mkv").

Without these metadata details, YouTube will treat your upload as a regular 2D side-by-side video.

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Step 4: Upload to YouTube

Once you’ve completed the steps above, you’re ready to upload your MKV file to YouTube.
YouTube will now properly recognize your video as 3D, allowing supported devices to automatically play it back in 3D mode.

And that’s it, your workflow is complete!

Watch my video for even deeper instructions on how to Upload 3D Videos to YouTube That Actually Play in 3D.

Watch in 3D

Watch in 2D